Gulf of Nicoya, Costa Rica
On Nicoya Peninsula the only reliable road connection between the provinces Guanacaste and Puntarenas is on the 26 km of bumpy gravel road from Playa Naranjo to Paquera. Other tracks interconnecting the northern with the southern province are only seasonally or not at all driveable (see: Driving from Manzanillo to Playa Coyote).
Jungle shrouded in mist near Paquera
Unfortunately there is also a gap in the public transportation system: no bus serves the 17 km stretch of road between Rio Grande and Naranjo.
Most travelers breeze straight through on this bone-chilling track up hill and down dale although the area is an eldorado for naturalists, fishing buffs and kayakers who can explore reclusive beaches on islands and hidden coves. Most hotels here offer tours or rent equipment for aquatic sports.
Few people live in this region and the lush jungle touching the sea and covering the islands gives a wild beauty to rocky cliffs, promontories and bays.
From Naranjo to Paquera:
Naranjo isn't much more than the ferry slip and a gasoline station, but you will find some nice hotels and a sandy beach shaded by stocky trees.
Short after Naranjo, a small road to your left goes to Playa Blanca, a beautiful little cove with white coral sand, where you can swim safely in calm, turquoise water.
Playa Blanca
In front of Playa Blanca lies the former prison island, Isla San Lucas and the Sugarhat island. Fishermen praise the lobster banks here.
At Bahia Gigante the road comes close to the shore and you might have
a break for bathing in the crescent, sandy bay and have a snack in the
funky beach bar.
400 meters offshore is Isla Gitana and some small islets,
which protect the Bahia Gigante and the adjacent Bahia Luminosa, making it a safe and picturesque anchor place for sailors.
Bahia Gigante
5 km further down the road you pass through Rio Grande. From here you can make a tour into
the hills to the "El Salto" waterfall with its swimming hole.
Driving 2 km east from Rio Grande you get to the small, scenic cove of Playa Pájaro
where you can swim and relax under huge old trees.
Leaving Rio Grande you have a 7 kms drive on a horrendously bolder strewn road to reach the town of Paquera. Here you can buy the freshest sea food, and locally grown fruits and vegetables. The friendly little tico village is good option for those traveling on a restricted budget.
Playa Organos near the ferry in Paquera
Paquera has several affordable hotels and it is only 6 kms away from the Curu Wildlife Reserve. Besides hiking through the reserve, you can from there launch your tour to the Tortuga Islands, go scuba diving or snorkeling.
Four kilometers from Paquera is Playa Organos, a placid wide bay with a picture-perfect sandy beach, surrounded by jungle. This is an ideal and safe beach for swimming with views to the Tortuga Islands.