Manzanillo, Santa Teresa
Manzanillo is still not so much troubled by tourism and has the
relaxed ambience of a small Costa Rican pueblo. There are only a few places to stay, plus two or three bars and
restaurants, where the locals hang out, and where you get typical dishes and drinks, while
chickens run around, and lazy dogs have their nap.
The beach of Manzanillo is shaded by stocky palms and almendros bending far out over the sand. Swimming however is difficult, as there are dangerous rocks underwater.
At low tide you can walk over the rocks to a large lagoon which is protected by a rocky reef. It's the perfect place for snorkeling. The light underwater is best during morning hours.
Exploring the beaches around Manzanillo is probably one of the best things you can do here.
The coastal road from Mal Pais and Santa Teresa ends in Manzanillo and if you want to drive north you have
to turn inland.
See: Are Map from Manzanillo to Playa Coyote
North of Manzanillo along the beach:
The area north of Manzanillo is among the last uninterrupted stretches of pristine beach wilderness on the Nicoya Peninsula where sea turtles come to lay their eggs and birds and rare animals find a refuge. It is part of a huge hacienda whose owner, thankfully, doesn't allow any development on his property. Instead there are plans to declare the area a wildlife reserve.
Hiking along the coast you will rarely encounter any humans; instead you will find seclusion and dramatic views of lonely beaches littered with bizarrely shaped driftwood.
Before leaving Manzanillo, check on the tides, as there are rivers to be forded. Shortly after Manzanillo is the Rio Manzanillo and 2 km further is a small estuary to cross. After another 5 km you will wander along an extended spit of land, having the ocean on one side, and the majestic Rio Bongo on the other.
The Rio Bongo is one of the biggest rivers on the Nicoya Peninsula, forming the border between the provinces of Guanacaste and Puntarenas.
You can cross the Rio Bongo only on low tide, at the outer edge of the river mouth.
As there are no facilities all the way to Playa Coyote, you should pack enough water and take sun protection for the mostly shadeless way. Locals need around 4 hours to walk the 16 km until Playa Coyote but you will probably spend more time for bathing at the deserted beaches and looking for sea treasures.
Arriving in Playa Coyote you are greeted by a large and sandy horseshoe bay which is fringed by coconut trees. See: Playa Coyote